[PDF.76zn] Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing

Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing

[PDF.er62] Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing

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 | #14447974 in Books |  2003-07-29 |  2003-07-29 | Format: Bargain Price | PDF # 1 |  7.80 x.50 x6.40l, | File type: PDF | 176 pages

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||3 of 5 people found the following review helpful.| Dancing the Wave|By A Customer|I bought this book on an impulse after reading the back cover and a few pages. The promise of those impressions was not realized in the work. I wanted very much to like the book, but in the end felt that it jumped around, scratched alot of surfaces, and never really became insightful in the way I had hoped. Also, on a couple of subjects it actu| |The ocean's presence is always in me; I never feel separate from it. Surfing is a martial art, a spiritual discipline of body and mind. In the sea, you always have to be ferocious, quick, and violent; and fluid and serene--as it is. You sound your own depths i

There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean. In Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he opens the door to this world beyond the summer sun and simple pleasures of the ride, invitin...

You easily download any file type for your device.Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing   |  Jean-Etienne Poirier. A good, fresh read, highly recommended.

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